Saturday, October 29, 2011

Be Self Sufficient With Hand Water Pumps

!: Be Self Sufficient With Hand Water Pumps

What would you do if the water in your home, one day, stopped running from the faucet? But it wouldn't only be you - the water would be shut off from all of your neighbors' houses, as well. With no water source and no grocery store for miles, what would you do in that instance, except for wait?

When you depend on the traditional system of pipes and faucets, such an instance is bound to happen, even if brief. Instead of expecting this dependence over time, however, consider an alternative - hand water pumps. Although used as a backup for traditional motorized designs, these hand pumps allow you to manually bring up water from a source below ground, such as an aquifer. Such a system does not rely on electricity and can bring up more than a day's supply of water.

Pumps, hand or electric, have a jet or submersible design for bringing water up from a shallow or deep source. Shallow pumps have a jet design and are mounted above a well. This system brings up water through a suction motion, much like when you suck on a straw. Limited to a depth of 25 feet, these water pumps need to be filled already through a one-way check valve to start working.

Water pumps for deep wells also have a jet design. To go a greater depth, however, the system uses two pipes, both of which use suction and pressure to lift water.

Submersible pumps are more efficient for deeper wells. Made with a long cylindrical shape in a well casing, these water pumps are primarily underground. The bottom half is a sealed pump below ground that is connected to a power source on the surface.

Hand pumps can be used with shallow and deep wells. Simple Pump, one of the more well-known manufacturers of hand pumps, has a manual design that brings up water at five gallons per minute from a few hundred feet below ground. Although a hand pump can back up a motorized system, it can also be used on its own.


Be Self Sufficient With Hand Water Pumps

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Sunday, October 23, 2011

Little Giant 5-ASP-LL Water Wizard Submersible Pump

!: Best Prices Little Giant 5-ASP-LL Water Wizard Submersible Pump cheap

Brand : Little Giant | Rate : | Price : $116.49
Post Date : Oct 24, 2011 05:30:08 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Little Giant 5-ASP-LL (505350) Submersible Utility Pump / Sump Pump w/ Low-Level Piggyback Diaphragm Switch and oil-filled motor. The 505350 model Pumps down to 1/8" in "manual" mode operation and has a low-level pressure diaphragm which allows the pump to switch with "on" levels at 2" to 3" and "off" ranges at .5" to 1.5" in "automatic" mode. These 5-ASP-LL Little Giant Pumps has a 1" FNPT discharge, as optional regular garden hose adapter, screened inlet and 18ft power cord. Little Giant Utility Pumps 5-ASP-LL Series utility pumps have an epoxy coated cast aluminum housing. For use in commercial, industrial and home applications where liquid must be transferred or recirculated. Specs: * Model Number: 5-ASP-LL; * Horsepower: 1/6; * Max. Flow: 1200 GPH @ 1' of Head; * Cord Length: 18'; * Switch: Automatic, Diaphragm type; * Shut Off: 26.3' ft of head; * Voltage: 115V; * Hertz: 60 Hz; * Amps: 5; * Watts: 380; * Weight: 10.25 lbs.; * Height: 7.75"; * Widht: 4.31"; * Length: 7.7"; * Certification: UL/CSA;

  • UL listed
  • 1/6 HP
  • 115V; 60Hz
  • bottom sump-type pick up with removable plastic screen
  • Pumps down to 1/8-Inch

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

Submersible Pumps

!: Submersible Pumps

A submersible pump is one that has a sealed motor, fitted in a pump body. The total assembly is immersed in the fluid that needs to be pumped. The main advantage of this type of pump is that it can offer a considerable amount of lifting power, as it does not rely on external air pressure.

A submersible pump has a system of mechanical seals that is used to prevent the fluid being pumped from entering the motor, resulting in a short circuit. A pump can either be attached to a pipe or a flexible hose.

Some of the types of submersible pumps are bladder pumps, bilge and ballast pumps, borehole pumps, booster pumps, and centrifugal pumps. Other examples are condensate pumps, dewatering pumps, fountain pumps, grinder pumps, micro pumps, sampling pumps, trash pumps, utility pumps, and well pumps. Some submersible pumps are manufactured for particular applications. These pumps are water submersible pumps, sewage submersible pumps, 12-volt submersible pumps, sand submersible pumps, irrigation submersible pumps, and solar submersible pumps. Solar submersible pumps have many uses and are suitable for slow and steady water transfer into a holding tank.

Submersible pumps are found in many appliances. Single stage pumps are utilized for drainage, sewage pumping, common industrial pumping, and slurry pumping. Multiple stage submersible pumps are normally used for water abstraction. These pumps can also be found in oil wells. Moreover, submersible pumps can be positioned directly in a pond and require comparatively little installation. These pumps are also relatively silent.

The four main specifications that should be considered while choosing a submersible pump are maximum expulsion flow, maximum discharge pressure, horsepower, and discharge size.

Earlier, the main drawback of submersible pumps was that its pump seal could rupture and release oil coolant into the water. However, newer pumps are magnet-driven, and no longer require a coolant. These magnet-driven pumps are more expensive, but they consume less electricity.


Submersible Pumps

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Monday, April 18, 2011

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Saturday, April 9, 2011

Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

!: Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

Replacing a submersible well pump is not a complicated task and relatively uncomplicated if you understand the basics about a well ideas - like the placement of the pump, how the submersible pump operates and how it is installed in a well casing. An advanced do it yourselfer with knowledge of electrical wiring and some basic plumbing skills is probably capable of replacing a submersible irrigation pump. This is not a step by step facility guide but rather an summary for a normal insight to evaluate whether to do it yourself or hire a contractor. The savings on the cost of labor, if you do it yourself, will be about 50 - 60% of the total price of a undertaker of a package deal doing the job. The first factor in deciding whether to endeavor doing it yourself is how deep the well is and do you have a large sufficient lay down area to layout the pipe in your yard once you start pulling it out of the casing. If your well is 50' to 150' deep, I would suggest doing it yourself if you are physically capable to continuously lift and pull about 40 to 70 pounds of weight and hold it in place for during the unblemished extraction of pump to keep from dropping it back into the well. To do this you will need at least one other person to help you pull out the pump and guide the extraction pipe away from the well as you are lifting it out.

The well casing in made of steel, iron or Pvc pipe ordinarily 3"or 4" inside diameter and this acts as a sleeve in which the pump housing, extraction pipe and wiring go down to reach the water level within this pipe casing. Attached to the submersible pump is the extraction pipe, ordinarily 1" to 1- ¼" flexible poly pipe and the electrical wiring which also runs into this casing to the depth of submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, the heavier and more difficult it is to lift out. The weight of the pump assembly may wish some rigging above the well casing to help lift and hold the pump assembly in place so it doesn't slip and drop back down into the well casing as you are pulling it out. Once you start pulling up of the pump you must continue the petition until it is fully out of the casing. If you are doing this manually attach a rope beforehand to the top end of well cap so the other person can easier hold on to it and tie it off to something - a tree or fence, in in the middle of lifts if you need to take a break and stop lifting.

If you determine to replace the well pump yourself, here are some tips to remember. determine that the pump motor is bad by checking circuit breakers, switches and check that power is at the well head. If power is on at well head it is a good sign that the pump is broke. Turn off the power at the breaker panel, tag and lock it out for security before you start exposing the well head. Clear the area nearby the well head, approx 6' to 8' diameter, of shrubs and plants so you have sufficient room to expose the pump outlet and electrical connections. Disconnect the extraction pipe and undo the wiring at the junction box near the top of the well. Loosen the bolts on top of the casing cover, this is a squeeze type of cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tightened and contracts as loosened against the casing interior. Once loose, try to lift the cover, as you lift you will be getting an idea of how heavy the whole assembly is of which you have to lift out of the well.

Now you are ready to lift the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or coveralls should be worn as the pump piping may have an iron and silt residue on the exterior and can be quite a messy job. Fasten a pull rope nearby the top of the well head for the other person to hold on and tie off if needed. Some wells may have a leader rope or cable already attached from original facility instead of relying on the extraction hose clamps and connection. The person who will do the actual pulling should stand directly above the well to lift the extraction piping level out of the casing and the other person should stay with the top end of well cap and guide it to where you lay it down as you pull. Make sure that the person guiding the end has a good grip on the end before you release to get someone else grip. Continue until pump assembly is fully out of the casing and wash off the whole pump end so you read the specification tag of the pump.

Collect the data from the old pump - brand, model, Hp, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous duty and the pumps outlet size and extraction pipe size. Most residential submersible pumps are whether 2 wire or 3 wire configuration. The 2 wire type has 2 - 110v wires along with a Case ground to pump housing. The 2 wire pump needs no controls. If it is a 3 wire pump you should replace the controls also.

Most submersible pump are two piece units bolted together to be one assembly and consists of the motor and the pump. You can just replace the motor or pump if you choose, but I would very suggest that you replace the whole assembly. After you have identified what type and size pump you have you may want to determine to upgrade your ideas with a higher volume pump of keep the same configuration. For upgrading, you should experience a provider or well undertaker of a package deal for recommendations to be compatible with your needs and piping sizes to which your pump feeds.

Installing the new pump assembly. Make an itemized list of new parts, controls, fittings or wiring as needed. If the existing wiring and flex pipe are in good health there is no need to replace them. To setup the new pump you will have to splice the electric wires together in a waterproof connection. Consult an electrician or well undertaker of a package deal to specify the power wire splice connector type and technique approved for well applications. Connect the pipe fittings and pipe clamps as directed in the manufacturer's instructions. Tape the power wires about every 2' for the whole length to the flex pipe for ease in reinstallation of pump into casing. Turn the power to the pump on momentarily to check if it is working before inserting assembly into well. Turn the power breaker off and get ready to insert the pump back into the well again using 2 citizen - one at the well chance lowering and feeding the pump down and the other person at the well head cover feeding the slack to you and to help hold back to forestall the pump from dropping fast down the casing.


Submersible Well Pump How to Replace

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Saturday, March 26, 2011

Pond Pump | Pond Water Pumps | Pond Pumps

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